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Post by mach12 on Sept 14, 2020 12:02:45 GMT -5
I normally just clean the rust away, treat it with phosphoric prep & etch, wash it off, and then season it. I've seen people mask and paint it with high temperature paint and that worked okay until the first time it needed to be cleaned with oven cleaner and knowing how much of a mess I'm capable of there was no doubt in my mind that the paint would have a short life. I do all the little dimple rust spots that way too. I deep cleaned my well and broiler box about a month ago and had to re=season so warmed up the bare spots with a little butane pencil torch and then brushed on some mineral oil using one of those little acid brushes for spreading flux when you're soldering copper pipe. The pencil torch worked nicely to heat the bare spots but not warp the metal or cause the enamel to flake off the surrounding area.
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 14, 2020 12:50:37 GMT -5
Steve’s right and he’s the one who showed me how to season those rust spots. Just be sure not to get any acid on the good porcelain though, it will etch it white. Like Steve said, it will be a maintenance thing to stay on top of once or twice a year but it’s better than dealing with the VHT paint.
You know, I was just telling my Mom today how the yellow automotive paint I put on a yellow stick pot has held up great too. It’s on the bottom rim, outside of the pot close to the flame and it hasn’t burned off yet. Maybe doing the same thing on the rust spots inside the Well might work?......time for an experiment. 👍
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 14, 2020 14:39:58 GMT -5
I can season the inside rust no problem. My main question was for the rust spots on the outside of the can, since that won't be accessible, I'm guessing just high temp paint.
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Post by mach12 on Sept 14, 2020 16:29:47 GMT -5
I can season the inside rust no problem. My main question was for the rust spots on the outside of the can, since that won't be accessible, I'm guessing just high temp paint. That's the way to do it, at least in my experience. I do the same on any rust areas on the inside of the front and side panels too. Eventually they'll rust through from the inside and the enamel will flake away. My panels came back from IPE with some pretty bad rust on the inner surfaces so I cleaned them up with a Dremel wire wheel, wiped them down with mineral spirits, sprayed some rust convertor primer on the bare metal, and then sprayed them with a medium high temp. engine paint I had on hand. The high temperature paints come rated for different temperatures and the higher the temperature the paint is rated for, the less gloss it has. My theory is that the panels don't really see a lot of heat and a glossier paint will clean up better so went with a 600F rated paint vs/ the 1200F or higher I use otherwise. So far so good.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 18, 2020 15:37:24 GMT -5
Spent a little time today and pulled the remaining insulation out around the oven box. Removed the oven box with cast iron front. and finally got the oven pilot tube & bottom vent + arm out. The skeleton is now bare, ready for stripping and painting. I had thought about having the whole chassis hot tanked to remove all paint and corrosion, then look into having it powder coated. HOWEVER idk if powdercoating is a good idea.
Also Cerakote makes a 2000degree "glacier black" coating that is room temp cure. We have a gun shop locally that does cerakoting of parts, thought about having my burners done with that, and my other little parts with regular cerakote.
Id say there was a solid 20lbs of "sand" in the bottom, little glass beads. I didnt snap any pics of the bare skeleton yet.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Oct 23, 2020 9:04:01 GMT -5
I've been finding it hard to stay motivated now that im to the point of needing to clean the rust and prep/paint the stove body. Its cold and snowy here now so working out in the cold sucks haha. I thought about building a small paint booth in the basement with the poly sheeting, furnace filters and box fans.. Also, I was trying to be a good guy and help a facebook chambers group member out. We struck a deal to trade my factory NG orifices, the whole setup, for his factory LP items. I cleaned and polished my units up, labeled, bagged and mailed them. They got his stove working great and now his family is cooking!! Right away he kept saying he would get my parts mailed out. BUT, he has since ignored my messages about sending them... So im thinking I got ripped off. To which I now dont have any orifice units.. so that sucks. on a side note, my toaster has been making the best toast ever, My sunbeam waffle iron has been making awesome waffles.. and I have yet to use my c50 vacuum coffee maker I got from a member here.
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Post by pooka on Oct 23, 2020 12:38:54 GMT -5
Never attribute bad intent to someone unless you know for sure of ill intent. You can't know they ripped you off for sure. Only that they haven't yet gotten back to you.
I applied for a home equity loan to fix my roof & a few other things. I hadn't heard from the credit union for a few weeks. I stopped by there to find out what was going on. I found out the loan officer had gone on vacation, but on returning, she came down with covid & had handed my file over to another loan officer, so that was the delay. The other loan officer called me a few days later to finalize the paper work. You may have been taken advantage of by this person, but you don't know for sure yet. They may have just been preoccupied by something else, or just be a procrastinator & slow to respond.
Never jump to conclusions without proof.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Oct 23, 2020 16:26:57 GMT -5
I understand things happen.. but the person has been on Facebook daily and it's been about 3-4weeks since they installed the parts and we're supposed to send the other parts back. I guess we will see. If not I'll have to find some LP orifices and caps.
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Post by nana on Oct 23, 2020 19:51:00 GMT -5
I hope it works out for you. Geez I would hate to think a Chambers person would just blatantly cheat another Chambers person like that! Somehow that seems so wrong, like an extra layer of evil.
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Post by mach12 on Oct 23, 2020 23:52:53 GMT -5
That really makes me angry when I hear things like that happening. If somethings going on that's holding thing up he owes you an explanation. Where does he live?
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Post by pooka on Oct 24, 2020 2:05:04 GMT -5
Well there are Chambers folks, then there are people who have a Chambers. The first are people who treat you like family. The others can be anything from a bosom buddy to flim-flam man. It can be tough to judge. I try to trust people, but with reservations. If you face the world like an armed camp, it's tough to have cordial relations. I'd rather be at least a bit trusting in steps to test the waters & be taken, than look at everyone as a possible foe.
It serves no benefit to get bent out of shape if you get taken either. It's wasted energy. I've tried to teach people a magic phrase. You say "Oh Well", then get on with your life. Fuming & fussing just gets you worked up to no end. I've been known to say I don't need to get revenge. Someone else with less scruples will do it for me. If they're that big a cad, they'll piss off someone else who has no reservations in knocking their block off. It's called karma.
There will always be scoundrels in this world. Many are easy to spot. But when you trust someone, & they let you down, chalk it up to experience, & let it go. You live & learn. Do unto others as you would have others do unto you. You may notice it starts out with you doing unto other first & hoping for the best. If you face the world as a twisted game out to fleece you, you'll lead a sad life. I'd rather cast my bread upon the water, than be a clutching miser.
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Post by dwayner2 on Oct 25, 2020 20:21:17 GMT -5
I’ve been in contact with the person Voodoochikin04 is referring to helping them with their broiler. I wouldn’t think they’re delaying the shipment of his tips on purpose but I don’t really know for sure.
Mach12, as a short term fix while he is getting his stove together, I could send Voodoochikin04 a set of B/BZ fittings that have the pointed mixer pin under the cap. That way he can tighten the cap down and get the stove working for now. Then he can replace the fittings with the proper setup later. What do you think?
I don’t have the long factory tips for LP but I do have the small bits you sent me to drill out new caps from Anderson-Forester.
My other suggestion is this, so let me know your thoughts. I can take those same B/BZ fittings with the pointed pin and switch those out with mixer pins from a set of Universal fittings from a C stove. I would switch the caps as well. That way he has “Universal” mixer pins inside B fittings. The caps won’t be the long ones but will still work. Good idea, yes/no?
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Post by mach12 on Oct 25, 2020 23:01:19 GMT -5
I'm confused. I thought he had propane ones and was exchanging them for a set of adjustable natural gas mixers. Or do I have that backwards?
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Post by dwayner2 on Oct 26, 2020 6:58:06 GMT -5
Voodoochikin04 gave his NG tips away in exchange for some LP tips, but he never received them. But may not be an issue now, the person with the LP tips has contacted Voodoo and will be mailing them out soon. Problem solved looks like.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Oct 26, 2020 10:03:21 GMT -5
I probably jumped the gun, but when someone doesn't send the parts and then doesn't respond to messages for a considerable amount of time... Experience leads me to think I need to find an alternative route lol...
Thank you all for the concern, much appreciated!!
Ordeals not over till parts are in hand. I'm happy to have been able to get someone's family fed by means of getting their stove going. So even if that costs me a set of mixers and caps.. so be it.
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Post by pooka on Oct 27, 2020 0:23:34 GMT -5
Just imagine all the TV shows & movies where someone jumped to an incorrect assumption. Some for comic relief results, & others, tragic results, like they lynched the wrong guy. As many teachers through school used to relish regaling about. When you assume, you make an ass out of u & me.
Only react to proven facts. Rumors & innuendo & our own imagination can lead you down a road to no return. The Spanish American war started because we thought the battleship USS Maine was blown up in Cuba's Havana harbor by a Spanish mine. In 1976, a team of American naval investigators concluded that the Maine explosion was likely caused by a fire that ignited its ammunition stocks, not by a Spanish mine or act of sabotage. WHOOPS! When you act without the facts, you're flying blind. That's not a place anyone wants to be.
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Post by mach12 on Oct 28, 2020 10:43:21 GMT -5
Voodoochikin04 gave his NG tips away in exchange for some LP tips, but he never received them. But may not be an issue now, the person with the LP tips has contacted Voodoo and will be mailing them out soon. Problem solved looks like. My brain has been frazzled for about two weeks so I'm not surprised I mixed it up. It's only short term memory stuff though. Doc says it's normal process and a good sign, so I guess I'll stick to stuff like painting walls and splitting firewood for now.
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Post by pooka on Oct 28, 2020 13:23:36 GMT -5
I find I remember far too many things I wish I could forget. Some are of no consequence. Others are not. Then I forget more important things that I should remember.
Names have been elusive for the last ten years or so. I delivered pizzas for fifteen years, & had the map memorized to the point I knew things that weren't on any map. When I left that job, the bottom fell out of my memory for names. Having worked in businesses that have a high turnover, I've worked with more people than many will meet in a lifetime. Names became of no use to remember until you'd been around me for a long time. Useless data cluttering up my mind. Then still, I have to use memory tricks to recall some names. One of my managers has the same name as a notorious local murderer from my youth. Another shares a name with a famous old west bank robber. Face it, we're getting old. At least some of us. Our minds can become a crap shoot on how well it functions. Age has a way of rounding off our edges, but it pokes holes in us too. With the perspective of age, we see the long view, so in some ways, we're sharper than ever. In other ways, we're long past any measure of prime. We're on the downhill slide to the end. Enjoy the ride while you can. I just signed paperwork for a loan to fix my roof & some other long neglected upkeep. I had to decide whether to get what they call credit life on the loan, so it'll get paid off in the event of my demise. At this point, it's a no brainer. Even in the best of times, you never know when something will come out of nowhere & take you out. Love & live for today, for tomorrow you die. I've seen the good, the bad & the ugly sides of life, & I've lived a sheltered life for the most part. I'm not going to race till the end, but I'm not going to try to forestall it either. The end come on it's own timetable. I've read that Monty Python's Always Look On The Bright Side Of Life has become the most popular song to play at memorial services for funerals in the UK in recent years. I hope that says something about peoples attitudes on life. The old top favorite was Frank Sinatra's I Did It My Way.
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Post by mach12 on Oct 28, 2020 16:17:59 GMT -5
I'm going to have to check into that song. I doubt if I'll have a funeral when I move on, though at that point I doubt I'll care much. Even so, there are several things I'd want and others I don't want. Instead of a funeral, I want a party. And if somebody plays the song Amazing Grace I'll haunt them. Love the song but it's over done. And keep the bagpipes away, another overdone thing. It's to the point that when you hear bagpipes you wonder who died.
I know age has something to do with it but right now the recovery from brain surgery is making it especially challenging. The tumor they removed, an acoustic neuroma, was on the nerve to my left ear but was surrounding a whole cluster of nerves for the left side of my face, left eye and so on. They were able to remove the tumor without sacrificing any of the nerves but with all of the nerve trauma I lost hearing on the left side, have vertigo like crazy, and all kinds of other fun stuff. According to the doctor, as the nerves heal, I'll experience exactly what I am right now with changes in taste, vision, brain fog and so on and that it's an encouraging sign that the nerves are healing properly. I've been researching and studying it and it's really pretty fascinating.
Things like buying cookware have been more challenging than usual though, hence my post. So far I couldn't be more impressed though. One of the things I worried about was the inside of the pans having circle grooves on the bottom of the inside cooking surface. I'd have thought it would be a problem with cleanup. The idea, I'm sure, is to create more surface area to transfer heat to what is being cooked. The instruction say to use low to medium heat, but in my mind that's pretty subjective considering the variety of burner sizes and BTU's on ranges and cooktops these days. The circle design really works great and so far there hasn't been an issue with scorching or burning, something I was concerned about. And they clean up just fine. We'll see how they hold up.
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Post by pooka on Oct 28, 2020 18:22:21 GMT -5
They've used so many tricks over the years to improve cookware, be it the materials & how they are combined, or the coatings & the shapes. Now the latest challenge is making them work well with the Induction Cook-tops and Ranges.
I'm happy with my old 30s & 40s WearEver, or newer commercial anodized aluminum stuff. But I know we all have different wants & needs in what works best for us. I've got a few copper pans that I've used gingerly. The little fry pan makes great scrambled eggs, but so does my little anodized aluminum commercial one, & I don't have to be as careful with it. I've always shied away from stainless, because what I've used was thin & hard to keep from scorching things with it. I do have one stainless fry pan I've never used. It's one of the Paul Revere Ware Signature Limited Edition that's copper on the outside, & stainless on the inside. I've got one old square cast iron Wagner ware that's just for bacon, & another round vintage generic for pancakes. We use what works best for us.
Ive seen so much nice cookware that's ruined because the nonstick coating didn't hold up to abuse. Some of the stuff seem to be made with a short life span in mind. I don't know. I've not really delved into newer cookware in a long time. As I've said before, I buy almost nothing new. I let time weed out the bad ones, & buy the best of the survivors at second hand prices.
It's all subjective as to what tool works best, or feels best to who ever is using it. The expert can split hairs as to what tests the best, but we use our pots & pans in the real world & not in a lab. So there's a different best for each of us. Some people can ruin the best stuff there is with abuse. Others can get five star results with cheap & battered old stuff. It's all comes with skill & practice.
Some are never happy. I watched a video the other night reviewing a stand mixer. The woman complained she needed to wash the bowl's factory fresh finish before using it, because there was black residue in the brushed stainless surface. She said they should have acid washed in at the factory. I mean who doesn't wash anything new before putting food in it.
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Post by mach12 on Oct 29, 2020 0:35:16 GMT -5
All of the nonstick will eventually fail no matter how careful you are. We always cooked with them using lower heat, use silicone utensils or melamine when appropriate, and hand washed them but the sauce pans and the frying pan we use the most were beginning to dull on the bottom and one of them showed signs that the nonstick coating was lifting where the utensil contacted the bottom when stirring. One of the things I like about the consumer reports test is that they rate wear by running 0000 steel wool on the nonstick with a machine and then check it every so many strokes and this stuff had the highest rating. Another thing they test now is heat transfer through the coating and presence of hazardous or potential hazardous makeup of the coating. Both also excellent.
That being said, I like the older stuff too. Especially the Wearever and the Magnalite and I have an awesome cast iron cookware collection that I use all the time. My wife prefers the nonstick, so the compromise is that the lower cabinet to the left of the stove has my most commonly used stuff and the less used is in a separate cabinet. The nonstick is on the pot rack and lids and so on are to the right of the stove. Works great for me and you know what they say - Happy Wife, Happy Life.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Nov 24, 2020 8:28:47 GMT -5
Well after staving off a bout of motivation related delays.... lol. I got a little more work done! My original goal was to have this ready by thanksgiving BUT I just got lazy and did not want to wire wheel the paint and rust off, and repaint. Its probably good that I decided to remove the insulation and oven box, BUT I would have been ok, not knowing there was some light surface rust going on at the seams. Stove would have been fine for the remainder of my usage. At any rate, most of my high temp parts and small linkages/brackets are getting an 1800degree Cerakote* Glacier Black coating. I have about half of the stove skeleton stripped down, and a friend of mine is going to help me paint it at his employments paint booth.
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Post by mach12 on Nov 24, 2020 14:41:24 GMT -5
That's so cool to see that level of restoration. Ready for generations of use and enjoyment.
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Post by dwayner2 on Nov 24, 2020 22:12:42 GMT -5
Cleaning up the stove body and removing the insulation is my least favorite job but the new paint always looks great and you know it’s ready to go for another lifetime. Be sure to make a little photo album of the before and after pictures that you can keep near your stove. That way your friends and family can appreciate how much nicer it looks compared to when you first got it.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Nov 26, 2020 10:49:10 GMT -5
ive already experienced that, where a friend saw a tote of cleaned up parts and didnt think twice about it. Until i showed him the before photos, then he was shocked.
The benefit to a tear down this involved is that I now know every single part and how it interacts with everything else on the stove. I enjoy that aspect about my possessions.
on another note: ive become torn on two subjects.
1: The chrome top. I do love the chrome top, but I have also become fond of the porcelain tops and I actually liked the one white porcelain topped stove I saw. My chrome top is thrashed, it looks like crap. Its pitted and scratched to hell. People will see it and think JUNK... I know it can be sent off and chromed, but ive read about issues with chroming the cast iron tops, with having bubbles, or other problems. OR it being $700+, which I dont have a problem spending but it seems like alot for uncertainty. I thought about having it sand blasted and cerakoted as well, but idk what to do. Originally I have wanted to just do a sympathetic restoration but I really hate how my top looks lol.
2: I originally seeked out a model B stove because I was infatuated with the charm of the high back and hinged lid. After all this time, having one in my home, and seeing the newer models. I think i've come to like the C high back more and more. It appears as if there is more room for pans on the back burner, it has a cleaner look and smoother styling. Had been contemplating maybe selling this unit, and looking for a nice C.
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Post by mach12 on Nov 26, 2020 12:38:58 GMT -5
The problem ones I've seen since my involvement in Chambers stoves have all been related to the chrome shop shortcutting the process but if you have it done by a reputable shop who triple dips it (first copper. then nickel, and then chrome) you'll get a good, long lasting chrome finish. I don't know what shops you have in your area but if you want to ship it to a shop, Salt Lake Chrome in Salt Lake City, Utah does a great job and they stand behind their work.
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Post by Chuckie on Nov 26, 2020 13:40:11 GMT -5
The problem ones I've seen since my involvement in Chambers stoves have all been related to the chrome shop shortcutting the process but if you have it done by a reputable shop who triple dips it (first copper. then nickel, and then chrome) you'll get a good, long lasting chrome finish. I don't know what shops you have in your area but if you want to ship it to a shop, Salt Lake Chrome in Salt Lake City, Utah does a great job and they stand behind their work. I BELIEVE Jeff @ IPE told dwayner & I that you CAN porcelain a former chrome top--that is, IF you have the chrome shop do their magic to get it back down to raw metal. So you COULD have your top porcelained IF that is the case.
Dwayner, jump in here if I've misspoke... CHEERS! Chuckie
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Nov 26, 2020 14:07:02 GMT -5
the most recent chroming issue I read about (not sure how old the situation actually was though).. involved a cast B model top and salt lake chrome.. where they had broke the top in half, welded it and now bubbles were forming lol..
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Nov 26, 2020 22:20:00 GMT -5
I took the stove body and parts to my good friends place of employment so we could prep and paint. We used a 6" da sander with 120grit paper to remove the rust and old paint as well as a course wire wheel. Some spots we couldnt get more than we did without having to remove a lot of metal.
We got it all stripped down, cleaned with lacquer thinner and primed with an acid etching primer.
Tomorrow we are gonna spray with Matthews satin black paint and clear coat.
I'm trying to think of ways to seal the inside of the oven or protect the floor around the seam where the walls meet the floor panel inside the oven because that was the worst rust and pitting areas.. years of condensation and cleaning chemicals im assuming, running down that seam.
This is my good friend ED helping me do the paintwork!
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Post by mach12 on Nov 26, 2020 23:53:41 GMT -5
Man, that's doing it right!
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