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Post by voodoochikin04 on Aug 31, 2020 22:22:23 GMT -5
Ok got some more rust removal done. I'm shocked at how easily these parts cleaned up. I soaked over night in vinegar and the rust basically fell off from looking at it. The broiler burner spent a week in a tub of vinegar, but the rust melted away, I was impressed. BUT, the inside has some powdery rust in it, ive blown through with air and such. Thought about loading it with sand or BB's or something and shaking like a MOFO to clean it out.
Then I went through several types of wire wheels & scuffers. Turned out well. However, I wasn't paying attention and hit the end of the pilot valves on the wire wheel, hopefully they don't leak.
I heeded another warning that I read and did NOT remove the valves from the pipe. However I had previously started loosening one, hopefully it wont leak.
So here is that gap in the oven bottom, better seen now that the rack panel is out. Is this going to allow heat to escape? should I worry about it? Not sure if its heat warped or if someone pushed it in accidentally, and the porcelain will crack if i mess with it.
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 1, 2020 8:33:26 GMT -5
I think there’s a picture missing about the gap on the oven door? As for removing the gas valves from the pipe header, you might have read a posting referring to a model A or Imperial stove. On your stove (B) it’s OK to remove and clean them if you want, just number your valves and keep a record of how many turns each one is inserted into each hole. That way you know how far to turn it once your tape or grease is on the threads later. But, you can clean them while still on the pipe header, no biggy. On an A or Imperial stove, the valves are designed differently and are operated by pulling and pushing on the valve lever. If you remove those and don’t get them tight enough once replaced onto the header they may shift on you after they are back on the stove. That’s why I think it’s better to leave them as they are and not remove them. But, after seeing a picture on another post of how they line up on the header, the A valves WILL need to be turned a little in order to remove the core for regreasing. the picture below of an A stove header is not mine, I stole it from another site. 😬
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 1, 2020 8:59:28 GMT -5
here is the missing picture.. its inside the oven, bottom left side. it got pushed in due to mechanical force or heat warped, not sure I should mess with it. But also dont want to be losing heat there. Also you can see the rusty bit there... I really didnt want to have to pull the oven box out too.... BUT now im thinking I should in order to treat that underfloor area too.. :/
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 1, 2020 11:36:15 GMT -5
I don’t think having that gap there is going to hurt anything nor effect the CWGTO. On the other side is probably a small gap like that under the hole where the oven burner goes thru the wall. Most every Chambers I’ve seen has that gap under the burner hole. Besides, heat rises so the heat will move up to the oven box and loose little to none thru that gap.
But as you said, it may be good to pull the oven box out since there is some rust going on there. You could just sand that spot and do the Phos Acid, then mineral oil. But, it would be hard to keep that acid off your good porcelain around it AND there’s still going to be rust behind that wall that won’t be treated. 😐
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 1, 2020 13:42:01 GMT -5
what good is a fully cleaned and painted stove if you leave sections like that untreated? lol...ugh..
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 1, 2020 17:17:09 GMT -5
True Dat! 😃👍
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Post by mach12 on Sept 1, 2020 22:58:43 GMT -5
When I did mine I figured I'd go all out and then I'd be good for another 50 years or so. That'd put me a bit over 110 and if I'm still around at that age I'm really going to be PO'd! The next overhaul will be someone else's project!
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Post by wizardoftrance on Sept 2, 2020 1:31:31 GMT -5
Decided to snap a shot of our kitchen sink and cupboards that were installed in 1953 when the house was built. I grew up here, and in the 20 years from when I left until I came back to this house, the cabinets have been painted several times, and the color scheme is not our own. We plan to redo it beginning next year. Anyways I think the chambers will match nicely with my existing setup.
I have this almost EXACT sink/drain board/cabinet set. (Mine is one big sink instead of doubles) Check for the cutting board inside of the lower left cabinet at the top!
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 2, 2020 8:35:12 GMT -5
Oh wow that's awesome WOT.. I went and checked right away. The tracks are there for it but alas, no cutting board. However my half sheet & rack slide right in there. That cupboard has a slide out shelf in it as well, does yours have that too?
Someone has cut out sections above the hinges on that door, but I see no signs of any repair done. Several of my drawers are on the fringes of the drawer slide hangers breaking, and I really see no easy way to get in there to weld those unfortunately.
Personally I'd love to disassemble these cabinets, strip all the globbed up paint off, repair any spots, and have them powder coated.
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On another note, I'm looking for a 70's era kitchenaid kds-15 thru 18 dishwasher if anyone knows of one.
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I plan to start pulling oven box tonight. The thought is to segregate the top sides and bottom insulation into separate bags so I can know how much went where. I just don't have the experience of how much goes where and at what density to feel sure of myself here.
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Post by mach12 on Sept 2, 2020 11:50:59 GMT -5
Those chrome handles are so cool! They remind me of the V on the front of the hood of my 57 Chevy and the magazine articles you used to see with what they're now calling mid-century modern design. Hanging lamp lighting and spindle leg furniture.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 2, 2020 19:43:20 GMT -5
SOOO..... I'm pulling this rockwool out around the stove box.. this stuff is packed so solidly in here I'm nervous I won't be able to pack it so heavily. It's like it's in sheets, idk how they got it stuffed in there so good. I started from the top down. What's the best way here?
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 2, 2020 22:11:23 GMT -5
Once I remove the top half of the insulation I lay the stove on its side or back and let gravity help by letting it fall as a pull. The insulation will get more compact as you near the bottom, that’s also where you find most of the greasy stuff you’ll need to replace.
When you repack the insulation later, just add 6-8” of loose insulation all around the box each time and then gently pack it down with a narrow board. You don’t have to cram it together but just get it firmly packed without any holes.
Before I begin putting the insulation back around the oven walls I make sure the floor is in, rear baffle is installed and the two side runners are in place. This will keep you from packing too much insulation to where it pushes the walls inward. I’d also stop about half way during the process and slide your racks in the oven. If they slide easy, your good. If they are tight that means you packed the insulation too tight causing the side runners to push against the sliding racks. Pull some out and start over.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 2, 2020 23:20:43 GMT -5
So far everything is perfect looking, other than that little spot for rust in the photo. Go figure. Insulation is nice and clean so far on the bottom left, that's as far as I got for the night. There are two bolt holes in the back wall of my oven higher than the vent.. looks like nothing was ever installed there as the visible insulation through those small holes is black. what are they for?
Could a high temp sealant be used around the inner oven floor to keep grease from getting down along the walls?
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 3, 2020 8:27:01 GMT -5
I'm seriously considering, just cleaning that rusty spot where the oven wall was pushed out ... And repacking that insulation back in. Because everything else there looks really good. Idk what to do. Lol
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 3, 2020 16:00:42 GMT -5
“There are two bolt holes in the back wall of my oven higher than the vent.. looks like nothing was ever installed there as the visible insulation through those small holes is black. what are they for?“
Those holes are where the clips go that hold the capillary tube for the thermostat. It’s rare to find good ones still in the holes. Just bend you a piece of clothes hanger in the shape of an “S” and use those as hooks.
You could cut you a 2” strip of flashing to put along that wall with the rusty area and the gap. But, that could be a place for liquids to collect that spill from your food and cause more rusting. For the cracks around the floor....I think Mach12 mentioned once that they make a Silicone that withstands temps up to 500°, maybe he will chime in on where to find it. Since the oven temp can reach higher than 500° I’m reluctant to try it for fear of bad odors burning out of it.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 3, 2020 17:19:04 GMT -5
I used copper rtv on a small wood burning stove I made, and its held up haha. was just thinking out loud.
So whats the opinion: clean that rusty piece of floor and treat it, paint it, restuff that side so there is no more large gap..... and not pull out the remained of the insulation.....
OR....
go full hog, take it all out and be 100% sure its all good lol...
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 3, 2020 21:25:54 GMT -5
Also, on my model how does the thermowell come apart. Is the inner wall and bottom one piece or are they separate? mine is caked in alot of crud, I can see two screws in the bottom but not sure if the bottom is its own piece. I had thought I read about being able to just replace the bottoms.
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 4, 2020 1:29:49 GMT -5
If the rest of your inner oven porcelain looks really nice, I’d say grind off the rust with a Dremel bit, use a Q-tip to dab on some acid, let dry 2-3 days, lightly sand that area and then season that spot 3 times with food grade mineral oil. You can season the oil on later once the stove is back together by utilizing the oven burner/heat. I’ve used a torch with a soft flame to do spots like that but you have to keep the flame moving, on and off the metal too. This will prevent you from melting the porcelain. Probably safer if you wait and do it later by baking it on. 😃👍
On the bottom of the Well body is the bracket that the gas orifice/mixer pin is mounted to....remove that piece by pulling out the screws. Now look on the bottom plate of the Well that was near the BACK of the stove. On each corner there is a little flap of metal folded over....straighten those out. The bottom plate should now just slide out, unless there is grease under there causing the bottom plate to stick to the Well can
Oh, and yes, try to push the insulation down enough to close that gap against the oven floor piece. I’d first clean that gap with a knife or stick to remove any gunk that may have collected down there.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 4, 2020 17:48:28 GMT -5
Hmmm, that description doesnt seem to match the thermowell I have. ill try to get some pics after bit, it looks like remove two screws in the bottom and the whole inner can will pull out. idk.
anyways im at a cross roads with my top. I previously thought I would just clean it up and leave it as is, BUT it has alot of pitting towards the back, one spot has been scrubbed down to the iron, discoloring in the center where the pilot light is, and a few rust pits that someone has tried scrubbing really hard. SHOULD I sent off to SLC and have it rechromed? Or just run with it looking like sh|t... lol???
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 4, 2020 18:41:18 GMT -5
Are you wanting to pull the inner porcelain “can” out of the Well body then? I thought it was just the bottom plate you needed off. Let us know and we can elaborate more I guess.
The top is really whatever your happy with. An old chrome top is better if you do a LOT of cooking so you don’t have to worry about scratches. A new top looks great but you’ll have to clean off the grease weekly and always worry about family and friends wanting to help clean up and maybe scratching the shiny chrome. That actually happened to a lady years back. Her M-in-Law decided to help clean the kitchen while the lady ran her kids somewhere. She came back to find her new chrome top scratched and dull, her MIL used a soapy SOS pad to scrub it down....ouch!
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 5, 2020 2:07:26 GMT -5
Haha oh that would not be cool. Maybe I'll roll with the scratched up top, I don't know yet I supposed.
I thought I had read the inside thermowell bottom comes out separate from the whole inside can.. maybe what I actually read was the outer well body bottom plate can be removed.. sorry for the confusion. So to be clear, the inner can is all one piece?
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Post by pooka on Sept 5, 2020 3:59:05 GMT -5
That top is all a matter of taste. It'll work the same either way. This is a case of what pleases you. Do you want a runway model, or an old plug that'll get the job done, even though it looks ripe for the glue factory. A rat rod of a stove if you will. If you get it re-done, then you may drive yourself crazy being self conscience about messing it up. These stoves are work horses if you need them to be. Their beauty is more than skin deep. I'd get it as clean as you can, then polish it with MAAS metal polish, or automotive glass polish, & buff it out & see if you can live with the results. If it's still too rustic & well worn for your liking, spring for new chrome.
This stove will get attention no matter what. They are so different from the norm, people will be oohing & aahing it on sight. I posted about a blog post of someone in New York who wrote, some people thought her model C was a new stove made to look vintage.
I don't know your sense of style, or how frugal you are. If you've gotta have a clean & shiny top, & the cost is not an issue, splurge, & go for it. Right now, it's original. To some, that's a plus. It means no one has messed with it. I'm sympathetic to either side of the question. I understand some want their stove to be as close to new condition as possible. Others appreciate patina, at least to a point. On one of Jay Leno's videos on one of his Duesenbergs, he talks about doing a sympathetic restoration. Which is to say, you clean it up, & make everything work, then leave it alone. He says it's only original once. Once you restore it, it will always be a restoration. The difference is important to some.
In the end, you're allowed to be selfish & indulge your pleasure. I've got a post somewhere about the Dalai Lama making a trip here in the US. The story culminates at a ski resort where a waitress asks the big question no one dared. What's the secret of life?. He said, that's easy, Happiness. But the hard question is what makes you happy. Big house. Big car. Carrier, or being a kind & compassionate person. That's the hard question. What makes you happy.
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 5, 2020 8:32:46 GMT -5
Yep, on your model the Well inner porcelain can is one piece. I try and post pics later today on taking one apart.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 5, 2020 13:54:33 GMT -5
No need for pics. Seem obvious since I know it's one piece now. I feel dumb asking basic questions like that but nervous I'll screw something up lol.
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 5, 2020 14:06:49 GMT -5
SOOO....if I use a fine brass wheel I can get a fairly clean polish on the chrome and it looks like brushed stainless.... That's a option I suppose.. I have no problem spending the cash for rechrome, but I do like the all original aspect. And I've heard Jay leno say that before.
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Post by dwayner2 on Sept 5, 2020 15:47:42 GMT -5
A member in the Ft Smith AR area did his C top like that. Took one of those green 3-M dish scrubbers and ran it one direction left to right. I liked it so much I’ve done 2 tops that way myself. It’s good if there are some sad areas on an otherwise good top. And, after some use you can run the pad over it again to renew that brushed steel look. 👍
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Post by mach12 on Sept 5, 2020 23:45:44 GMT -5
Since Chambers triple dipped the tops (copper, then nickel, and then chrome) from the sounds of it there's a pretty good chance that the chrome layer is worn away. I've found that Stainless cleaner and polish for appliances does a really good job of protecting the nickel or chrome (or both). I use it on my stove and it really makes it easy to keep clean. I've tried several brands and they all seem to be the same so have started using the Weiman brand that seems to be the most available. If you stay with the finish it has now it'll keep it looking good and easy to clean. I also started using it on the folding top of our BZ because we're constantly getting sauce splatters on it and stuff like that and for the year or so I've been doing that it has been great on the porcelain too. I used to spend a lot of time cleaning it but now it cleans up with a wipe with a damp dishcloth. An option to keep in mind anyway.
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Post by wizardoftrance on Sept 6, 2020 0:52:20 GMT -5
Oh wow that's awesome WOT.. I went and checked right away. The tracks are there for it but alas, no cutting board. However my half sheet & rack slide right in there. That cupboard has a slide out shelf in it as well, does yours have that too? Someone has cut out sections above the hinges on that door, but I see no signs of any repair done. Several of my drawers are on the fringes of the drawer slide hangers breaking, and I really see no easy way to get in there to weld those unfortunately. Personally I'd love to disassemble these cabinets, strip all the globbed up paint off, repair any spots, and have them powder coated. --------------- On another note, I'm looking for a 70's era kitchenaid kds-15 thru 18 dishwasher if anyone knows of one. --------------- I plan to start pulling oven box tonight. The thought is to segregate the top sides and bottom insulation into separate bags so I can know how much went where. I just don't have the experience of how much goes where and at what density to feel sure of myself here. Yes, the shelf slides out on mine too.
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Post by wizardoftrance on Sept 6, 2020 1:00:26 GMT -5
Are you wanting to pull the inner porcelain “can” out of the Well body then? I thought it was just the bottom plate you needed off. Let us know and we can elaborate more I guess. The top is really whatever your happy with. An old chrome top is better if you do a LOT of cooking so you don’t have to worry about scratches. A new top looks great but you’ll have to clean off the grease weekly and always worry about family and friends wanting to help clean up and maybe scratching the shiny chrome. That actually happened to a lady years back. Her M-in-Law decided to help clean the kitchen while the lady ran her kids somewhere. She came back to find her new chrome top scratched and dull, her MIL used a soapy SOS pad to scrub it down....ouch! Actually, I have found that a soapy sos pad is not a bad thing for the chrome top. You get a mirror finish on the chrome. The downside is that it looks so good you have to do the entire top which is a lot of elbow grease. Sos pads are also good for making the griddle shiny. I learned about this from old Schwinn bicycle handlebars. Then on removing scratches from chrome bumpers. Stay away from the green scrubbies!!!! on backs of sponges or by themselves... Definite scratch maker!
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Post by voodoochikin04 on Sept 14, 2020 10:08:57 GMT -5
Some updates. I got the T-well pulled apart and the inner tub cleaned up. The dawn power dissolver is no joke. Not real sure which path to take on the rust on the outside of the can. Figured grind, treat and high temp paint? The inside will probably just have to be oil seasoned.
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