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Post by nana on Nov 14, 2015 19:31:25 GMT -5
I am on cloud eight! It would be cloud nine except she's not hooked up yet. The literature mentioned 5/8" pipe, and our existing flex pipe is 1/2 inch. So that is the size adapter we got. Then when we looked inside, it turns out the pipe to attach to inside the stove has 3/4 embossed on it. So now we have to wait til tomorrow to go back to the hardware store. I also have an email in to Don to make sure that 1/2" to 3/4" is what we indeed need. I had the pizza dough all made and ended up having to bake it at my daughters... But she is lovely and Don did a great job on her. She shows just enough age to blend in with the rest of the house(including us!!), but she's still got "it" in all the right places! This is the view you have while sitting at the bar. Nice, huh?
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 14, 2015 19:57:14 GMT -5
That is TOO awesome, but SO frustrating. We're anxiously awaiting tomorrow. She looks really sweet in her new surroundings.
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Post by chipperhiker on Nov 14, 2015 20:17:11 GMT -5
YEAH!!! I'm super excited for you! She really is lovely and fits in there beautifully. Congratulations.
I went through the same kind of hook up delays, but it was totally worth it.
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Post by karitx on Nov 14, 2015 21:27:48 GMT -5
Woohoo! I know it's sad to have to wait another day, but Marilyn looks *awesome* in her new home!
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Post by pooka on Nov 15, 2015 4:01:46 GMT -5
It's like Roseanne Roseannadanna always said, "It's always something. If It ain't one thing It's another".
So if there's no snafus at the hardware store tomorrow, you'll be up & cooking. I shall raise a toast to this milestone. I'll look forward to coming home from work tomorrow night & reading about your christening meal.
Marilyn looks good, as if she's always been there. Darned if these things seem to be timeless. They fit in where ever you put them, but you can't help noticing them. I remember reading a blog where the writers guests thought her model C was a new stove built to look like a vintage one. They were shocked to hear it was fifty year old.
You might want to look into getting some sort of heat shield or metal edging for the end of your counter-top near the griddle. If you use it a lot, it may scorch the edge of the counter & cabinet.
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Post by nana on Nov 15, 2015 8:16:46 GMT -5
Thanks for all the compliments! My first thought this morning when I saw her was "Dam- she looks good!" I look at it as the big picture--I waited years for this moment, so what's one or two more days? But cooking with her will be sweet.
I was a little worried about my butcher block too, Pooka. There's a slight difference in height, the counter is maybe a half inch taller, so I don't think one of those standard T strips will do. I may see if the shop class at school wants to do one as a project! One thing I'm happy about is the curtain on the window seems to be safe, the stove comes out maybe 2" into the window frame. It's not blocking the window though. The curtain tucks nicely behind the backsplash, and since it's the thermowell side I feel it is far enough away from any flame to be OK. I'll keep an eye on how hot it gets back there, though. Because of the windowsill she is not quite flush against the wall, there's maybe 1 1/2 " space, but my husband is going to make me a tile backsplash to match the one behind my sink, and we will put a little shelf back there so that things don't fall behind her. All in all, I am well pleased!
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Post by melissaf on Nov 15, 2015 8:36:48 GMT -5
She looks great! You've had a long wait but it was well worth it.
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Post by pooka on Nov 15, 2015 13:02:39 GMT -5
Depending on your perspective, the good or bad aspect is this giddy feeling of having a Chambers doesn't go away. It may moderate a bit, but you always feel "special". You'll wonder how you ever put up with ordinary stoves before, & can't imagine going back to one. Personally, I try to resist, but hardly a day goes by without me bragging about my stove. I know people think I'm a bit batty. Most people will never understand. Maybe it's because I drank the Kool-Aid, but I can't believe I'm lucky enough to have one. Your adventure begins today.
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Post by wizardoftrance on Nov 15, 2015 13:59:35 GMT -5
Nana, You are gonna LOVE cooking with that stove! Everything works so much better than the latest in gas appliances; The broiler will definitely surprise you on how good the food turns out... not to mention the oven and thermowell (which are really crock pots you can put pans into) that make food taste so good it will make you give back stuff you never stole... Just learn how to use them the Chambers way.
All of this is from my own amazing personal experiences with mine over the last year... and I was using "ole Yeller" out in my garage!
Enjoy your stove Nana, and prepare to be amazed.
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Post by nana on Nov 15, 2015 19:48:15 GMT -5
So...we got the gas turned on ... But ran into problems getting the burners all adjusted The right front burner looks perfect, the left front has the occasional wisp of yellow, the rear burner is too tall and too much yellow, and the thermowell started out looking like the afterburners on the batmobile, and when we tried to adjust it it looked like a saturn rocket taking off! So we turned it back into the batmobile, awaiting further instructions before it can be used. The broiler lights in patches. I had to run the match all along the holes to get them to light, but I'd say a good1/3 to 1/2 of the holes don't light at all, and the flame is tiny on the ones that are lit, and the manual says there is no adjustment to make with LP gas, so again we await further instructions. The oven has that red button safety, so we got the pilot lit and the burner adjusted I think pretty well, it doesn't look like the diagram in the manual, but it's a pretty soft blue with a little yellow spurt every so often. And after a bit I noticed that the pilot had gone out, so we adjusted the pilot to be a little bigger, as best we could because again, our set-up doesn't look like the manual. It's sideways, and there's only one doohickey, not two. Now meanwhile, in a really spectacularly poor bit of planning, we also started to make our cider today, and I completely underestimated the time it would take--the press works great, but my electric meat grinder, although it works great at grinding up the apples, has such a small feed tube that each one of the literally hundreds and hundreds of apples has to be cut.. into quarters or even eigths. Plus the wormy parts need to be excised. This is a tedious and time consuming task, so we set fiddling with the burners aside, since we really aren't sure what to do next anyway, and I worked all afternoon with the apples, thinking all the while that I could still put a pizza in the oven to christen her, (I guess the first thing you cook is the culinary equivalent of smashing a bottle of champagne on it!) I go to put my pizza stone on the baffle and I see that the pilot has gone out AGAIN! So on Marilyn's first night home with gas we ate...leftover pasta from Friday night. Which was tasty enough, but I'm a little disappointed to say the least. The first thing Marilyn will cook will be to boil water for my tea tomorrow. Kind of a bummer. I mean, I like tea and all, but it doesn't get more mundane than boiling water. Plus I noticed that the e-mail I sent to Don Mattera with pictures and lengthy explanation apparently neither saved as a draft or made it through. I'm pooped, but I will try to re-send it as best I can. Sigh. Thanks for letting me vent. Oh. And to add insult to injury, the Patriots, who beyond a shadow of a doubt have all sold their souls to the devil, just beat the Giants in the last 6 seconds of the game. I am a Jet fan mostly, but I am fond of the Giants, and I HATE the Patriots with an intensity that is not becoming to me.
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Post by evangeline on Nov 15, 2015 20:20:21 GMT -5
Oooh, darn. Well, first, Congrats! You beat me by a mile! The best I can hope for is Christmas! and even then. . . . well. Why oh why is nothing ever easy! I'm very impatient and start to chew the curtains and Perfect Spouse says this too shall pass. . . and I want to bite him! But I don't. So I feel your pain! Poor you! Hoping fooling with the fiddly bits will solve your problems. Gulp. Lots of people here to help. My friends in Maine don't bother cutting out the wormy bits. Don't tell them I spilled the beans! Just finished the last mug from the last jug of their cider . . . warmed up and dressed liberally with Makers Mark. Highly recommended. Highly. And yes, about the Ps. Sorry everybody, I dislike them too. Here's the thing. Back in the stone age I was a Raiders fan. . . and they were in fact a bunch of rascals and the team was owned by a rascal. I'm not talking about Jim Plunkett or the other straight arrows. I kind of liked the bad boy factor. So why is it that I can't abide the Patriots? I guess I'm a Base Hypocrite. Marilyn is a beauty. Soon you'll have her running like a top!
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Post by wizardoftrance on Nov 15, 2015 23:20:33 GMT -5
So...we got the gas turned on ... But ran into problems getting the burners all adjusted The right front burner looks perfect, the left front has the occasional wisp of yellow, the rear burner is too tall and too much yellow, and the thermowell started out looking like the afterburners on the batmobile, and when we tried to adjust it it looked like a saturn rocket taking off! So we turned it back into the batmobile, awaiting further instructions before it can be used. Yellow in the flame means not getting enough air... so you need to adjust the air mixer shutter on the burner assembly to open it a bit more. (its the silver disk looking thing held by one screw that adjusts back and forth over the hole big hole on the end of the burner assembly by where it inserts into the stove gas pipe) You can see the burner lighting and adjusting instructions for your stove here: www.vintagechambers.org/pdfs/C-InstallationAdjustment.pdfI hope this helps
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Post by mach12 on Nov 16, 2015 2:35:02 GMT -5
Nana - I was just reading your post and you mention that you're on LP, so some yellow in the flame is normal. LP is a blended fuel and they mix in various levels of butane, etc. to ensure flow at lower temperatures and so on. All top burners should burn the same though. If a burner acts different, swap it to another position and see whether the issue moves with it. Make sure the burners are all the way onto the mixer/orifice cap so that all air is going through the shutter. Your T-well burner sounds like it may not be seated properly and is pulling air around the orifice cap.
I'm not sure which mixers you have but if they're not universal mixers or set up from the factory for propane then Don would have removed the Natural Gas caps and installed caps with the proper size orifice holes for propane, which are much smaller orifices than the NG caps. There are three common arrangements for mixers and caps. Probably the most common is for Natural Gas where the cap has a fairly large orifice and if you pull the cap you'll see a pin shaped like a 3 point arrow head. If they were setting up for propane at the factory they didn't install the pin and just installed a cap with the correct size orifice hole. The factory propane caps were the longer ones. No need to have the longer caps as long as you use an appropriate thread sealer so the gas doesn't leak past the threads. In newer stoves (later C series and on) they started installing a Universal mixer where the pin has a metering hole drilled in it. The Chambers manual gives the size of the hole in the pin so you can identify the correct pin for use at the top burners/well, broiler, and oven. With the universal mixer, to set up for LP/Propane you snug the cap down against the pin (careful not to over tighten and score the pin) so that the gas only flows through the hole in the pin. That's the position for LP gas (propane). Turn the Universal cap counterclockwise and the gas also flows past the outside of the pin through the hole in the orifice cap and it's in the Natural Gas position.
To set up for LPG you either remove the NG cap and install the correct orifice size cap (also commonly referred to as a hood) for LPG. I pulled the pins on mine but some people tell me they couldn't get theirs out co just installed the LPG sized cap, snugged it to the pin, and then turned it back out about a turn. No cap adjustments with LPG, only the air shutter. Only operate and adjust one burner at a time. If you have problems at a certain burner, look for debris that may have shaken loose during transport. The biggest culprit is Teflon tape and sealant. A lot of people wrap the tape where it goes past the end of the pipe or fitting or goop way too much sealant on the threads and the excess ends up inside the pipe and works it's way to valves, orifices and so on. Rust, dead spiders and other debris are common too.
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Post by sporko on Nov 16, 2015 7:42:36 GMT -5
Good info so far... I will mention that on the broiler, assuming you have adjustable orifices, you can certainly turn that up. If the broiler is up (where you can light it) you WILL get varying flames. Propane is heavier than air, so it when it is up, it will "pool" at the lowest part of the burner.
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 16, 2015 13:39:00 GMT -5
Yes, sporko. Also, they don't all stay lit in the "up" position. Lower it and see how it goes. It really took me a long time took calibrate those and my B oven. I think I still need to re-adjust my C's broiler and Twell.
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Post by sporko on Nov 16, 2015 19:21:04 GMT -5
Yeah, that's what I was trying to say, but didn't say very well. Peek through the crack with it almost lowered fully. I bet the flames even out.
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Post by mach12 on Nov 16, 2015 23:10:59 GMT -5
I'm confused about adjusting the orifices. My understanding has always been that with propane there is no adjustment other than the air shutter. Looking at the Chamber service manual it looks to me like it's saying the same thing. What am I missing?
When I did mine I pulled the pins from the mixers, put some sealer on the threads where the cap screws on to the mixer, then screwed a cap with the correct size orifice (per the Chambers manual) all the way down onto the mixer (no pin, so completely open behind the orifice). After I did them all I lit each burner one at a time, adjusted the air shutter, then shut it off and went to the next burner and so on. I had to adjust the regulator on my propane tank to bring it up to 11" W.C. on the manometer and that made a major difference. I didn't have the griddle or heat shield on mine when I lit the broiler burner to adjust its air shutter and the flame walked around the burner (it was in the lowered position). I had already adjusted the regulator on my tank since it was running around 9" W.C. new out of the box so that may have had something to do with it lighting so well. Flickers of yellow and even some yellow in the flame is perfectly normal with propane since it's a blended gas. If I remember right it's 95% propane and 5% butane and there are 4 or 5 different butane gases that they mix in, depending on location, season and so on, the butane is what causes the yellow in the flame, and how much yellow depends on the particular mix in the tank. The way they taught us to adjust air shutters when burning propane was to set the shutter so that it was open about 25% and then light the burner. You then open the shutter further until you have the smallest yellow tips you can get on the flames. Then you close the shutter slightly to increase the yellow and then open it until you just get to the smallest yellow tip point. If you open it too far you'll get a loud roar and the base of the flame will start to lift away from the burner, which is a flame that will blow out easily. That's the procedure I used on the one I set up for propane and it worked really well.
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Post by nana on Nov 16, 2015 23:18:26 GMT -5
This is all good information, thanks! I will try to reseat the burners, and if that doesn't work I'll try switching them. It is probably a matter of us not knowing what we're doing really, and I'm not sure about all the orifice/mixer terminology. Or how tight to turn them. Or which way. Or even if they are what I think they are and not some other part. Stuff doesn't look like the pictures in the manual to me. Don said my stove was set up for propane and the orifices are adjustable, but I'm not sure what that means or how they are supposed to be, and he hasn't got back to me yet... Quick stupid question: are you supposed to hold the thumblatch down while adjusting flame height, or just to light the burner? After work we finished up with the apples, so we had a simple stovetop pasta supper. We didn't try any adjustments, so poor Marilyn is spending another day as a semi-invalid, although I did notice that the pasta water boiled more vigorously than on my old stove, and the saute pan had no hot spots, so good for you Marilyn! Even with us two bozos floundering around you still have a lot of class. Great tip on the apples, by the way Evangeline! When I read that it dawned on me that although I cut open a bazillion apples yesterday I didn't see one worm, only their little punky brown trails. And realized of course, that those worms hatched out into whatever kind of bug they turn into, so they wouldn't be stuck in an apple that's either going to be eaten or fall and rot. And I tested my grinder and realized it grinds up cores too, so it went MUCH faster today! I did check the broiler, and no difference, up or down-- still patchy. Here's a picture, and now I have to go to sleep!
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 16, 2015 23:26:24 GMT -5
I'm presuming Don does some sort of boiler burnout in a restoration? Anyone know? I'm just wondering if there's any fine debris in the burners keeping them from lighting. Have you tried sticking something in the burner holes to clean them?
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Post by mach12 on Nov 17, 2015 1:02:00 GMT -5
The mixer/orifice terminology is confusing for sure. I gathered some pictures others posted on the websites awhile back and the credit goes to them for providing them.
This first picture is an excellent one that shows a mixer base with an early style pin installed (same as is in my A series) and the orifice cap is removed and sitting by it. The hole in the center of the cap is the orifice that the charts in the Chambers manual is talking about. The base on the right is for propane and doesn't have a pin. The long cap was the common style from the factory when they set it up for propane but shorter caps are also common, especially when a stove is converted after it leaves the factory. Note how the Natural Gas cap on the left has a much larger orifice than the three propane caps on the right. Natural Gas (methane) doesn't have near the BTUs of energy per cubic foot as propane does so it takes more gas to provide the energy needed to cook and the orifice size is larger for that reason.
This is from one of my BZ's that was running on Natural Gas and is the same as on my C's. This is what I was referring to when I mentioned the three point arrow head appearance. Note the debris in the top right channel. This is the kind of stuff that breaks loose and blocks the orifice in the cap.
And this next one is the universal mixer that they started using in the later C's. When the cap is snugged down on the pin the gas has to go through the drilled center of the pin in order to get to the burner and the holes are drilled for propane. To run Natural Gas the cap is backed off so that it goes both over the pin and through the center hole, providing the increased volume needed with Natural Gas.
If you still have the pin in the mixer it should look like this one in one of my BZs (Natural Gas setup in this case). Note the end of the pin visible in the orifice.
Without knowing what all you had Don do (like did you have him set it up for propane) or whether you have universal mixers it's pretty hard to say just what needs to be done. You'll figure it out though and really, it's great to get a good understanding of all of this stuff. I think Marilyn just wants you to get to know her better.
When I mention a manometer and the 11" W.C., Natural Gas and Propane are at such a low pressure that they use the industry standard based on how far the pressure pushes a column of water up a tube, so the measurement is W.C., or Water Column. It's a very common measurement in the truck and equipment industry too, so I have several manometers. My first one was homemade and worked like a champ, in fact I'm planning to make another for mounting on a board to use in my shop. I'll bet if you do a search on it you can find plans pretty easily.
On the thumb latch, it's a mechanical safety latch that is supposed to keep the valve in the off position until the latch is released. The ads stressed how it kept the toddlers from turning the gas on. "By the book" you only need to press it when you first turn it on but those who hold it down whenever they turn the valve see a lot less wear and damage to the mechanism.
We have quite a few apple trees that the deer and birds have planted on our place over the years so do a lot of apples. We have a Squeezo Strainer that we bought back in the 70's and man are they the ticket. Great for berries, tomatoes and other stuff too. They quit making them for a number of years but then a couple of years ago I saw an ad and sure enough, they're back. Even some color options now!
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Post by nana on Nov 17, 2015 11:47:04 GMT -5
Thank you for the great pictures, Mach12. That does make it clearer. I am pretty sure we inadvertently adjusted some things that didn't need to be. I'll tell you what I know and let's play detective. Don did set it up for propane. The only thing I know is my orifices are adjustable. (And I apologize for the fact that that sounds a little risqué!) I don't know squat about the mixers. But if I follow what everyone has been saying, then the orifice caps should be snugged as tight as can be (and is it still righty-tighty in the world of gas stoves?)and only the air needs to be adjusted. Does that sound true, or is there still not enough information.
Tonight I will try to poke at my broiler burner, because I went to look at it and there did seem to be something whitish blocking some of the holes. I'm going to leave the burners for now, because I have at least the two that are fine.
Last, but not least, the oven pilot. It stays lit when I let up on the red button for a while, but goes out some time after that, at least 15 min or so, although I haven't timed it to see how long. Any thoughts?
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Post by mach12 on Nov 17, 2015 14:25:36 GMT -5
If you pull a burner and look at the mixer does it have a pin? If so, is it the universal pin with the hole in it like the picture I posted? If it's a universal then you tighten the cap against the pin but it's brass and soft, so don't over tighten. Just snug. Then adjust the air and you're done. No adjusting the cap.
If it's the regular pin that hasn't been removed, no problem. Though the book says to remove the pin when converting it's common practice to leave it in so that the stove can easily be put back to NG if the need ever arises. In that case you'd run the cap down to the pin and then back it off a turn so that the propane isn't restricted by the pin. It's really important that the threads where the cap screws on to the base are sealed with a gas compatible sealant. The book calls for #2 Permatex, which is good stuff and available from auto parts stores. Just be sure it's #2 (non-hardening). #1 is a hardening sealant and will pretty much permanently bond the cap to the base. Once the cap is installed and backed off you adjust the air and you're done, again no adjustments. Propane is totally managed by regulated pressure, the orifice, and the air adjustment.
I bought a set of caps from Don to set my A series up on propane and from what we talked about I wouldn't be surprised if he left the pins in yours and installed propane caps on yours so that you'd have that flexibility. Reading through the posts on the sites I see some where people have successfully adjusted the NG caps down to where the propane was restricted by the pin and letting only a small bit of gas by so that it's only getting what a propane orifice would give. Don may have a system for that, too, but that's nothing I'm familiar with. I like just putting the propane caps on, adjusting the air shutters, and moving on.
My background is on the commercial side and I was trained to convert by changing the orifice caps (or spuds, etc. depending on the type of stove or appliance) so I don't what the procedure would be to adjust the NG orifices to run on propane but my guess is that it's all about flame height. I just don't know what the correct height would be since propane generally has a lower flame than NG. The A's and B's even had different burners, pans and brackets to raise the burners when you converted to propane but that changed when they came out with the BZ. I've dug through all of the Chambers literature and it all says to change the orifice caps so no procedures there, so hopefully someone who has a procedure can write it up or point us to where it's written up.
On the oven pilot, the flame of the pilot needs to impinge directly on the thermocouple. The thermocouple generates a very small electrical current when it's heated and that current is what tells the safety valve that the pilot is burning. If the thermocouple isn't heated enough it may not be sending a good enough signal to the safety valve. Some pilots have like 4 different flames and if the thermocouple is between the flames it may not be hot enough. The tip of the flame is a lot hotter than the base of the flame so having the tip of the flame on the thermocouple is best (I adjust them to where the tip just surrounds the thermocouple). There's an adjustment on the safety valve too, but that shouldn't need to be done. If your flame is too low I'd really start thinking about whether your regulator is working properly. The guy who delivers to my place carries a manometer and will check it for free when he makes a delivery. Regulators are really reliable but they do fail and having the correct supply (11" W.C.) is really important.
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Post by mach12 on Nov 17, 2015 14:39:16 GMT -5
Forgot to address the lefty-loosy righty-tighty question - yes, they're standard threads. I've only seen reverse threads on a cap once and that wasn't on a stove but they had the notches between the flats where you put the wrench, same as what you see on the fitting that threads in to a propane bottle (those notches indicate reverse threads).
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 17, 2015 15:58:55 GMT -5
The only thing I know is my orifices are adjustable. Last, but not least, the oven pilot. It stays lit when I let up on the red button for a while, but goes out some time after that, at least 15 min or so, although I haven't timed it to see how long. Any thoughts? Too much information, Nana! And then you add that your red button only stays lit for a little while. Really, this is a public forum! :
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Post by nana on Nov 17, 2015 21:40:51 GMT -5
I know.. even as I was typing that I was hearing all kinds of off color punchlines in my head. So this is what I did tonight. I poked out all the broiler holes with a paper clip, and now pretty much the whole ring lights, except the inner part of the ring at the front, at least as far as I can tell, because when I lower it and try to peek in, I can't see that part. But I am going to try a simple split chicken for dinner tomorrow, so wish me luck! I switched the two top burners that were not quite perfect, and while they were out I took a mirror and flashlight and looked at my orifice caps ( ) and they are the type that are in Mach12's picture #4, a little pointy part just sticking out, and I couldn't even see a hole, but I have to assume a small one is there, or there wouldn't be any gas coming through, right? One of the air shutters was a little bit stuck, so I scraped off the gunk with a screwdriver, and it now adjusts smoothly, and I adjusted accordingly, so all three top burners are also a go, although the rear burner position still has the most yellow flickers, but not so bad. It's useable. I think there's a little something to the thought that Marilyn wanted me to get to know her better! We turned up the oven pilot up even higher but it still goes out after about 15/20 minutes. My thermocouple/pilot light is one piece together, as far as I can tell. Upon closer inspection the pilot flame does not envelope the whole tip, it's off center, but I don't see any way to adjust it, so I think I have to wait for Don's help on that, as well as the thermowell, which I took out the burner and looked at the orifice cap with my handy dandy flashlight and mirror and it looks very different from the top burner ones-- it has a great big point sticking way out, although I wasn't able to identify it for sure as any one of the ones in Mach12's post. The air shutter doesn't move until you unscrew it enough to move it with your fingers, but it doesn't seem to matter because no matter what, it's still scary high and roaring and yellow. I feel like I made a little progress. I'm wondering if I do need to call the gas company to check the tank pressure, although my gas stove that was there before worked fine... I'm getting a little anxious about Thanksgiving, I can tell you!
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 17, 2015 22:54:36 GMT -5
With the "safety" pilot, can one still light the oven by match and have it go to by-pass, etc? Just thinking of options if you can't get this sorted out before the big day. Any chance you could get a pic of the Twell orifice cap? Is is possible that the cap is missing and you just have the pin there? Is the Twell pilot OK?
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Post by mach12 on Nov 18, 2015 11:56:16 GMT -5
I know.. even as I was typing that I was hearing all kinds of off color punchlines in my head. When I make off color comments around here she gives me the look and then tells me to take out the garbage or mow the lawn or something. Heck, just reading this makes me feel like I need to go out and rake the leaves.
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Post by nana on Nov 18, 2015 21:41:35 GMT -5
Here is my thermowell orifice cap, as best as I could get it. I am having trouble getting this to post. This is my third try!
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Post by nana on Nov 18, 2015 21:45:49 GMT -5
By the way, I don't judge, Mach12!
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Post by vaporvac on Nov 18, 2015 23:33:06 GMT -5
I almost looks like the pin is sticking out like mach12's picture. Are you getting any gas at all? I'm wondering if you need to open it a bit.
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