Post by dwayner2 on Aug 26, 2020 15:51:07 GMT -5
First things first. A few pointers before you begin....
-Spray some PB Blaster on ALL bolts, nuts, pins and springs a few days before you start. That will help loosen up a lot of the parts.
-When using a torch to heat up the pins and gears as described below, make sure NOT to melt the enamel sides of the box. Keep your flame moderately hot but not too hot, and watch where the flame is spreading and if it’s pointed AWAY from the enamel sides.
-ALWAYS take LOTS of pictures of everything BEFORE you begin. This will help greatly when figuring out where everything goes back together.
-Many of the bolts have small BUSHINGS or slip collars on them. Keep an eye out for them and don’t loose them.
BEGIN......
First picture is of the burner while still mounted to the box/stove top. You can remove the burner itself while the box is still on the stove but everything else is easier done once the whole box is off the stove.
****For future reference, “T,PB” refers to heating the area with a Torch until orange, allowing the area to cool and then spraying PB Blaster to loosen the rust. This may take 2-3 applications of Blaster along with tapping the area with a hammer after spraying it on.
First, remove this plate with the spring underneath from the left side of the stove body. This is a tension spring designed to keep pressure on the large shaft that’s inserted into the burner.
In the next picture, the arrow on the right points to the bolt and nut that needs to be removed or at least loosened next (T,PB). The center arrow is to the tapered pin that will need to be removed allowing you to pull out that 3/8” diam rod going thru the shaft. The far left arrow is where the shaft goes thru the side of the box and hits the tension spring. The BLACK arrow simply shows the direction the shaft needs to move later.
Next picture is of the base of the bolt which needs to be removed/loosened.
Once that bolt is loose and there is no tension on the two fingers grabbing the 3/8” rod, you should be able to slide the shaft to the left about 3/8”-1/2” and out of the end of the burner as shown in the second picture. The arrow is pointing to the spot where the shaft goes into the burner. It’s not in very far and that’s a good thing! This may take some BP Blaster and tapping with a hammer. Once the shaft is loose, lift and remove the burner.
Now heat (T,PB) the tapered pin and the 3/8” rod until orange. The tapered pin should be punched from the bottom upward and the 3/8” rod can slide out on either side. You can now pull the large shaft out from the box.
Next thing is to heat the gear and tapered pin with the BLACK arrow pointing to it (T,BP). The other pin with the red arrow does not get removed. The pin is removed thru the top by using a punch from the bottom. Once the pin is out, remove the gear from the lifter arm it’s mounted to.
On the OTHER SIDE of the box are two more tapered pins which need to be heated (T,PB). Once removed, pull the little rectangular gears off the lifter bars. There is a diagram below showing direction of the pins.
The next two pictures are of two bolts that have been “boogered” on the end of the bolt once they were mounted. This was too prevent the bolt from backing out later on. They should be heated with a torch and slowly removed to prevent breaking the bolt head off.
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My old diagram below below shows in what direction the tapered pins are removed on a C model broiler but still apply to a B/BZ. The two pins on the right side of the box (broiler pan adjustment) are shown in the bottom right of the drawing. Most of the time they are punched out from left to right, BUT....I did have one that was just the opposite of that AND....one that had each pin inserted in opposite directions. If you have a little of each end of the tapered pin sticking out of the gear, use a micrometer to determine which end is the smaller side and hit that side with the punch.
The rest of the bolts and nuts should come out pretty easy. If not, heat them a little and add more PB Blaster once they cool down.
LASTLY....the two lifter bars inside the box that lift the broiler tray are the LAST two parts to take off. Once all the gears are removed from the sides there will be enough “give” in the walls to allow you to pop them out of the holes.
-Spray some PB Blaster on ALL bolts, nuts, pins and springs a few days before you start. That will help loosen up a lot of the parts.
-When using a torch to heat up the pins and gears as described below, make sure NOT to melt the enamel sides of the box. Keep your flame moderately hot but not too hot, and watch where the flame is spreading and if it’s pointed AWAY from the enamel sides.
-ALWAYS take LOTS of pictures of everything BEFORE you begin. This will help greatly when figuring out where everything goes back together.
-Many of the bolts have small BUSHINGS or slip collars on them. Keep an eye out for them and don’t loose them.
BEGIN......
First picture is of the burner while still mounted to the box/stove top. You can remove the burner itself while the box is still on the stove but everything else is easier done once the whole box is off the stove.
****For future reference, “T,PB” refers to heating the area with a Torch until orange, allowing the area to cool and then spraying PB Blaster to loosen the rust. This may take 2-3 applications of Blaster along with tapping the area with a hammer after spraying it on.
First, remove this plate with the spring underneath from the left side of the stove body. This is a tension spring designed to keep pressure on the large shaft that’s inserted into the burner.
In the next picture, the arrow on the right points to the bolt and nut that needs to be removed or at least loosened next (T,PB). The center arrow is to the tapered pin that will need to be removed allowing you to pull out that 3/8” diam rod going thru the shaft. The far left arrow is where the shaft goes thru the side of the box and hits the tension spring. The BLACK arrow simply shows the direction the shaft needs to move later.
Next picture is of the base of the bolt which needs to be removed/loosened.
Once that bolt is loose and there is no tension on the two fingers grabbing the 3/8” rod, you should be able to slide the shaft to the left about 3/8”-1/2” and out of the end of the burner as shown in the second picture. The arrow is pointing to the spot where the shaft goes into the burner. It’s not in very far and that’s a good thing! This may take some BP Blaster and tapping with a hammer. Once the shaft is loose, lift and remove the burner.
Now heat (T,PB) the tapered pin and the 3/8” rod until orange. The tapered pin should be punched from the bottom upward and the 3/8” rod can slide out on either side. You can now pull the large shaft out from the box.
Next thing is to heat the gear and tapered pin with the BLACK arrow pointing to it (T,BP). The other pin with the red arrow does not get removed. The pin is removed thru the top by using a punch from the bottom. Once the pin is out, remove the gear from the lifter arm it’s mounted to.
On the OTHER SIDE of the box are two more tapered pins which need to be heated (T,PB). Once removed, pull the little rectangular gears off the lifter bars. There is a diagram below showing direction of the pins.
The next two pictures are of two bolts that have been “boogered” on the end of the bolt once they were mounted. This was too prevent the bolt from backing out later on. They should be heated with a torch and slowly removed to prevent breaking the bolt head off.
My old diagram below below shows in what direction the tapered pins are removed on a C model broiler but still apply to a B/BZ. The two pins on the right side of the box (broiler pan adjustment) are shown in the bottom right of the drawing. Most of the time they are punched out from left to right, BUT....I did have one that was just the opposite of that AND....one that had each pin inserted in opposite directions. If you have a little of each end of the tapered pin sticking out of the gear, use a micrometer to determine which end is the smaller side and hit that side with the punch.
The rest of the bolts and nuts should come out pretty easy. If not, heat them a little and add more PB Blaster once they cool down.
LASTLY....the two lifter bars inside the box that lift the broiler tray are the LAST two parts to take off. Once all the gears are removed from the sides there will be enough “give” in the walls to allow you to pop them out of the holes.
